The tie can be considered the more masculine accessories, nothing symbolizes the fashion as she, but few people know how did the modern tie and the trajectory so that she would become an icon of elegance and sophistication.
How Did The Tie
Since beginning of time we have evidence that men have always had the habit of using some tissue around the neck is to protect from the cold, as a sign of status, a religious symbol or simply a way to complement the outfit.
One of the oldest records comes from the Egyptians, whose amulet called “blood of Isis” was made of gold or ceramics and had the form of a cord with knots, he was placed in the neck of the Mummies and your job was to protect from the dangers of eternity. In China, a piece of cloth similar to a scarf stuck by a node was used for thousands of years as a status symbol by the troops of Emperor Shih Huang Ti. The focale was used by speakers at the time of the Roman Emperor Trajan (53-117) in order to warm up their throats. However the piece as it is known today could be, initially, due to the practicality of the Croats joined the French fashion sense.
In 17TH Century Europe-The Cravate
The most accepted version for the emergence and popularization of the tie back to the 30 years War (1618-1648) when the arrival of Croatian mercenaries to France drew attention of the local population for a detail: the scarf that they brought and tied to the neck that served, among other things, to maintain the uniform collar closed and aligned, as well as a delimiter of status , with soldiers using rustic fabric and sporting officials silk and cotton. Some people believe that on the battlefield the scarf had a purpose more noble, because it was useful to stop bleeding or to cover injuries (such as a gauze) but the truth is that some historians dispute this claim. I wouldn’t surprise me with this, history shows us that in fashion has always been above utility status or aesthetics.
Origin Of The Name
The Croats call themselves Ethnic, the French would pronounce Crotes, of the Union of two terms was born the word that would come to define this type of accessory: cravate. Today the cravate is a specific type of adornment worn around the neck. With a similar knot to tie, the cravate is made of bulky tissue and is still used in fancy outfits for weddings because of your classic look which refers to nobility of the cortes in centuries past.
It’s hard not to imagine that the corruption of the Portuguese word cravate generated for the tie we know today. In English the name is much simpler: necktie (node or neck loop) or just tie (knot or loop).
Popularization Of Cravate
In 1649 the young Luiz XIV, so with 7 years, started wearing a lace handkerchief around his neck, probably influenced by that seen during the presence of Croats, and, proving itself a trendsetter of handful, ended up taking the sets to any court. Soon men and women joined the fabric around the neck, tying in an elaborate and elegant lace or securing it with a cord.
Years after British soldiers on campaign in Italy would come into contact with the cravate and would take fashion to the British Isles and then to your colony in America.
From 1715 did the stocks, which at first were a strip of muslin that covered the whole neck, evolving later to a sort of “neck corset a leather used by the military to keep posture during the United order, in addition to protecting the main arteries during a combat with bayonets or swords.
The stocks of fabric were trapped in the back by a strap, tape or buckle, but later models have emerged with the fabric if crossing on the back and closing in front with a bow. The popularization of the stock and the various ways to tie the play were a step toward the creation of the modern tie and, as you might have guessed, the bow tie, you only have to look at the pictures, some of the data links to arrest him.
With the success of several ways to restrain him were appearing, were complicated and took us a lot of time and care needed to be flawless.Publications of the time teaching diagrams that showed the various mooring options have become guides for many vain men.
In the 19th century did man become more practical, there was no more time to waste on clothes and accessories that were littering complicated and restricted movements. The fashion became austere after men likeBeau Brumell, considered the first dandy showed that less was more.The arrival of the Industrial Revolution (1820-1840) demanded practicality of the new bourgeoisie who run factories and workers who did manual labor.
Lace and ruffles were definitely not trend at the time, the elaborate costumes were simplifying and approaching the suit we have today.Then in 1880 the ascot, an alternative to the stock, narrower and with a single loop around the neck, became standard for daytime outfits. The accessory became the spotlight when King Edward VII wore to go The Royal Ascot races, hence the name.
Emergence Of The Modern Necktie
The props of neck men were becoming simpler and less bulky, following the trend of the rest of the clothes of the time and many English-speaking people have referred to them only as “tie”, even in 20 years Jesse Langsdorf, a tie maker “of New York, had the idea to make a necktie with 3 pieces of fabric by cutting the tip at a 45 degree angle nozzle, giving birth to tie as we know it and we manufacture today in a technique called “building resilient”. Before that the ties were long enough only to be trapped under the vest, i.e. barely arrived at the end of the chest had to be fixed with a pin or clip and amassavam easily because it lacked the backing fabric and stitching used currently to keep your shape, making it also the node.
With the new format and its advantages to tie became more versatile, it was now possible to wear it with a blazer, paving the way for your presence not only in formal men’s fashion, but also in casual fashion.
The already mentioned neckties were made of linen, the fabric gave way to silk with the arrival of the ascot, which, though expensive, continued to please for a long time, however the modern tie managed to shape to the new times and when World War II limited resources, rayon, tissue derived from the cellulose fiber, also known as artificial silk , has become the most used in ties, often hand-painted with themes that went from the equestrian pin-ups and floral.
In the years 30 and 40 ties were wider, following the social and costume trim typical of that era, only in the 60 that the skinny tie came thanks to the slim fit suits, being driven by film and music icons who have adopted the news promptly, as the Beatles, for example. In the 70 years they have extended again and became extravagant, boasting psychedelic drawings, large patterns and many colors. It was the ‘ 80 that the ties with transverse stripes (regimental stripes), poás and micro prints became widely disseminated and used, as well as the models on crochet, option of young yuppies and hipsters artists.
Although so important in men’s fashion, the tie won the pecha work and sartorial accessory of Executive, that thought away from young people, for a long time she was seen as “a face to people square”. At the end of the ‘ 90 that suffered a setback that happened in part because of that decided to adopt ties with fun designs, often referencing pop culture, what remained tacky, but served to take the guy out of the play. Others who had a key role in bringing the tie of youth were bands like Greenday, among so many others, I decided to add a visual element to the rocker, showing the versatility was still latent in the good old tie.
At the beginning of the 21st century the skinny tie back with everything, catapulted by the massive use of menswear with trim more fair and more slender lapels that required a consistent with the proportions of the slim fit. Following emerged style icons, including athletes, musicians, models, actors, bloggers and showing how to use it on a daily basis in casual modern and amazing combinations. The tie had regained your place in the wardrobe of the contemporary man, overcoming prejudices and stigmas.
- In Brazil using the wordcravate to name the piece used in the neck when the bride and groom choose jacket or Tuxedo instead of conventional suit. It is a kind of tie, but with bulkier tissue and gives a classic visual effect, remembering the solemn clothes of the past.
- Not developed here the history of bow tie that will follow in parallel with the standard tie, I’d rather talk about it in an article.
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