Is it that we childishly interested in tailoring and craftsmanship behind a tailor-made product has not infrequently a garment from Swedish AW Bauer on the wish list. The old tailor’s Studio at Brunnsgatan in Stockholm last year, celebrated 150 years of quality and craftsmanship of the highest level. At the end of last year launched a new business partner for their custom shirts and we had the opportunity to evaluate the service.
We have written about tailored each size sewn in skjortväg on several occasions here at the Manolo. Olof has such as tailored from Cruciani & Bella and Luca Avitabile but even online measurement sewing service from Refinery29 in a significantly lower price class. I myself have evaluated Mazzarellis dimensions sewing and we feel it is important to clarify a few prerequisites when it comes to these two concepts.
Custom shirts is unlike what some people do not think about how many hand-stitched details a shirt or jacket has but rather that each customer’s product designs are created individually for them.
When it comes to size sewn stitching may absolutely be at the same level of craftsmanship but which always starts the manufacturer from a pre-existing patterns which are then adapted to the measurements that will be added into the system.
To put it simply, one can say that a tailored product always has a higher potential than a made-to-measure then there isn’t really any kind of restriction in the pattern as well as the possibility of multiple testing correction measures. At the same time are tailored not a guarantee that you, the customer, automatically will be more satisfied than with a size sewn option. If you have a grateful body and using a skilled producer, the result will be excellent and there is much beyond the dimensions that come into play in the overall assessment.
Then there is of course the most important aspects: Feeling and experience. To let tailor a personal brand for you as a customer is that we were looking at in the preamble a dream for many with a style or fashion interest. To have the opportunity to be in principle a total uncompromising with their own preferences and focus on better but maybe fewer clothes you really want.
AW Bauer is of course primarily known for his tailored jackets and suits to sew up in their Studio at Brunnsgatan. This is a price North of $30 000 for the latter but craftsmanship stands up well against the very best internationally.
The shirts, however, not able to produce in-house and when we asked Frederik Andersen on AW Bauer tells him that it is not a matter of lack of competence, but rather about the space and conditions.
“When you produce such as white shirts you need an almost sterile environment. Wool fibres from Blazer and kostymproduktionen otherwise to put themselves in the shirts which means that you would have needed a seperate local completely intended for skjortproduktion. “
If you doubt what Frederik says, we can attest that AW Bauer are not alone with this problem. Even tailors Bespoke Corcos that Zaremba Sartoria, and several other subcontracts the sewing of their custom shirts for specialists in the field.
Previously employed by a Swiss supplier AW Bauer for their shirts but as the vendor’s volumes increased felt that the standard could no longer be guaranteed, and at the end of last year we launched a new partner for its tailored shirts based in Italy. The company consists of a small Studio with only seven employees who deal exclusively with custom shirts.
Now maybe many wondering-“But if AW Bauer not to sew the shirts themselves might well not be tailored?”
The fact is that it is tailored to the very highest degree. Customers start with selecting a fabric from some of the hundreds of options available. It features everything from famous suppliers such as Thomas Mason to smaller mills. When we found her fabric you choose details such as cuffs, collar and any monogram. All of these details can be corrected if you want slightly longer kragsnibbar or more spread. The reason that it is possible is precisely because each part is cut out by hand, and therefore need not be limited to the basic pattern of undershirts according to nonprofitdictionary.com.
Frederik on AW Bauer takes all measures of the customers in the store who then sent down to the Italy. Where is cut every pattern out of hand based on these measurements. AW Bauer works thus exclusively with body measurements and not to deduct or add cm from a sample shirt.
Dimensions of each retail picks be noted on a form and the delivery time was calculated to be about 6 weeks.
In part II, next week we will publish the finished result with rates and sums up our approach to service.