Last week, you could read about when we wrote about the tailor’s Sartoria Corcos from Florence. We outlined the process when two pairs of pants were sewn up by the company’s skilled tailors Kotaro Miyahira. After a number of testing landed to finish the pants at the home of the author who today will share their personal experiences and thoughts on the outcome.
To begin with, I would like to do to draw attention to a cause. It is extremely difficult to review a trousers because it is a relatively thankless product to photograph. Therefore, there will be no kinks here and there (like a very sloppy down shirt). Especially with pants in thin summer cotton, it was a challenge to get to acceptable images. For the least little movement led to the on picture not looked completely perfect.Which is a shame since the summary judgement for these two pair of pants is that they are the greatest I’ve ever had.
Then I started the process of allowing sew up these pants for more than a year ago, I had not yet made many tailored trousers. Except for two previous tailored suits where the pants of course formed part I just had the experience of a single pair of flannel pants. When I decided to buy two pair of pants from Corcos after being inspired by his work, so I wanted to have two couples who went to match and carry to so many of my jackets.With my custom-tailored wardrobe, so far, is not huge so I try to think carefully on each purchase. How can the garment to be worn in as many ways as possible? It is an expensive product and why it is important that you get use to it. Therefore fell my couple on a pair of beige thin cotton pants that can be worn in the summer months for both dressy ullkavajer and more free linen/bomullskavajer.
I also wanted a pair of light gray wool pants, which likewise could be dressed up or down depending on the jacket. Actually was probably the idea a couple of summer pants more about Fresco than Cavalry twill, but I was hooked when I saw the fabric.
At the consultation, I experienced that Kotaro is a tailor with a distinct house style which he liked to stick to. He had a lot of opinions about how he found his pants, but even a jacket, would look like. This I have nothing really against then I selected the right his tailor shop to its cut and aesthetics. I realized pretty soon that he wanted to make a trousers in more generous expanse than I previously was used to. I stress that to date since then, his average has been exactly what I prefer. But more on that soon.
He also wanted to make the pants one centimeter or two longer than I usually do and fotvidden slightly more generous. I is 193 cm and to get a feel for my proportions so I had in the past often made my pants a bit shorter and narrower with a foot width of 19 cm. Now suggested Kotaro 20.5-21 cm, which gives a better balance, especially when the trousers are a little longer. I also had rarely chosen plisséringar, something he definitely thought that I would try, at least, simple ones. He also wanted to add a little more width across the thighs, as well as raising the waist in relation to what I was used to. Purely aesthetic he considered not cotton pants would have sideadjusters because it is a more casual model. He advised me to choose buttons instead of the waist. As the experienced professional he is, so I listened to him.
Just that with that Kotaro is very obvious in the advice he gives, and very concerned about their house style has made him if chosen to say no to customers whose preference is for far from it he who tailors would convey. I respect this and have no problem with that as i as I said attracted by the style. It shall, however, be acknowledged that it felt a little strange in the first avprovningarna and I was a bit afraid of a well, “the old man” look with your pants was unusually wide. Like this with the benefit of hindsight, I am thinking, what the heck, I’m a little “old man”, after all, and this type of Pant is just the way I like it. I have not thought of it before?
I have slowly but surely also learned one important thing during the last two years when I seriously have had their eyes opened to tailor-made fashion. A well tailored look is not the same as a roar-tight look, quite the contrary actually. After both had to sew up the garment and the honour to get to know some tailors and see and learn from their job, I have realized the importance of really good cutting, designs and craftsmanship. The jackets and pants I have sitting at its best and that are perceived as Figure-hugging is actually quite spacious cut. They have a natural cases and are tailored to the body in a perfect way. This is the main advantage as I see it with tailored clothes made by someone with great knowledge. To create a garment that looks prefect out and yet worn comfortably is an art. Corcos really succeeded with this in terms of my pants. I feel that they are spacious in the right places but look very good when it is worn. The craftsmanship there is nothing, on the contrary, the level is quite high.